Sunday, August 5, 2018

Porto Symposium, Part 3: Everything Else

7/21/18 A park near Hall of Justice, Porto
7/21/18 A collection of building tops sketched during
the final sketchwalk

At the Barcelona and Paraty symposiums, I opted for full workshop passes, which enabled me to take as many as four workshops (sometimes two per day). Although I benefited from all that I learned, the experience was exhausting, and I sometimes felt overwhelmed by learning too many new ideas at once. After Manchester’s even more exhausting (though ultimately more fulfilling) experience of being a symposium correspondent, I decided to be completely unstructured the following year in Chicago with a simple sketcher’s pass, which included no workshops at all. It was fun and relaxing, though I sometimes envied other participants who spoke with excitement about the workshops they’d taken.

This year in Porto, I opted for the basic pass, which gave me two workshops and a demo – an ideal balance between structure and flexibility. In addition to the formal benefits that we registered for, we could choose from optional activities, including several sketchwalks, when we weren’t occupied with the formal benefits. I chose sketchwalks at Ponte Luis I Bridge, Sao Bento train station, the Virtudes area and, of course, the huge final sketchwalk in a large square surrounded by dozens of astounding buildings.
7/20/18 Buskers at the Ribeira


At every symposium I’ve attended, I’ve experienced a certain tension: the pull between wanting to sketch as much as possible and wanting to visit with as many people as possible – new people I’ve met and especially those I am reunited with only once a year. Porto was no different; in fact, with each successive symposium, I find the pull toward visiting with other participants to be stronger because each year I meet more people, adding to the number that I want to reunite with. The wide-open format of the sketchwalks gave me opportunities to run into or actively look for people I wanted to see while also being in superbly sketch-worthy locations.

Looking around at each sketchwalk venue, I marveled at how many people were sketching together – sometimes almost literally shoulder to shoulder. It’s thrilling to see how much Urban Sketchers has grown over the years, including symposium attendance (more than 800 participated in Porto; at previous symposiums, attendance average was about 500). But I’m also ambivalent about that growth. This year in particular, I found it more difficult to find people at the necessarily larger venues. In the evenings when I had time to catch up on social media, I kept seeing posts indicating that people I knew were somewhere in Porto, yet I never saw them in person.
 
7/18/18 Montage from the opening sketchwalk near Ponte Luis I Bridge
On the other hand, I was delighted by serendipitous encounters with blog readers and other followers whom I didn’t know at all until they spotted me and came to tell me that they appreciate my blog. It’s probably one of the most gratifying aspects of the symposium – meeting people in person that I have otherwise known only online, or meeting people who are quietly reading my blog, previously unknown to me.
7/20/18 Dom Pedro IV monument in Praca da Liberdade and
Sao Bento station behind it

To increase socializing opportunities, I attended drink/eat & draws in the Ribeira area as much as I could stay awake for! The partying and continual conversations are difficult for an introvert like me. Ultimately, though, after all the ink has dried and the sketchbook pages have been scanned, my fondest memories of the symposium are always about the people I saw and will look forward to seeing again at future symposiums.

I am always grateful for the many USk volunteers who work hard all year to make each symposium possible. This year, I also appreciate the local Porto hosts and the Portuguese people in general, who were so gracious, welcoming and enthusiastic.


7/18/18 drink & draw 

7/19/18 USk President Amber Sausen bursts into song to get
our attention for the morning meeting.
7/18/18 Porto buildings
7/19/18 drink & draw

7/19/18 Torre do Clerigos
7/21/18 Musicus Ensemble performing at the closing reception

Final sketchwalk in the town hall square

Sketchwalk at Sao Bento train station filled with tiled walls

Sketchwalk at Vertudes

Following very competitive bidding, I won this spectacular drawing by Eduardo Bajzek in the silent auction!


Joan Tavalott

Mike Daikubara and Kumi Matsukawa

Elizabeth Alley
Alvin Wong

Gabi Campanario

James Hobbs

Jane Wingfield and Sue Heston (among the 800!)

Javier De Blas and Greg

Joel Winstead

KK

Lapin and Natalie Taylor (and me, photo-bombing my own photo as usual)

Paulo Mendes, one of our extraordinary symposium correspondents!

Peggy Wong

Shiho Nakaza and Liz Steel
More drinkin' and drawin'!



800 strong at the final sketchwalk and group photo

Can you find me?

I'm right there (in the red shirt)!

Next year: Amsterdam!

Saturday, August 4, 2018

Bothell Country Village

8/3/18 Keepsake Cottage Fabrics at Bothell Country Village

(I’m interrupting my normal programming of reporting on my trip to Portugal with a post on the type of sketching event I enjoy year-round: with my USk Seattle group. Though I don’t express it often, experiencing the thrill of sketching with 800 people in a foreign land doesn’t take away from the joy I feel each time I meet with my local tribe. Chatting with sketchers worldwide reminds me that not everyone is fortunate enough to have a local group to sketch with regularly, and I am always grateful for the friendship and shared passion I enjoy here with my homies.)

A few months ago, if you had asked if I could ever tire of sunshine, I would have vehemently answered, No way! But having been spoiled by sketching under the Mediterranean sun for most of July and hearing complaints from local friends about the heatwave we missed here at home, I woke yesterday morning to drizzle and overcast sky and said aloud: Hallelujah! I’m home!

We were saddened to hear the news several months ago that Bothell Country Village, a Bothell landmark since 1981, would be closing next year. USk Seattle has met at the colorful and charming shopping center several times, but upon hearing the news, we vowed to sketch there again for possibly the last time. Somehow I had managed to miss those previous outings, so I was especially eager to have the opportunity to sketch there.

Keepsake Cottage Fabrics is one of 40 local businesses that will be displaced next spring when the Village closes. Normally I would be annoyed to be wearing a raincoat and socks in August (one of my core values is to be sockless from May through September) and even more annoyed that the shadows were difficult to see under a cloudy sky. But yesterday morning I was OK with both. Practicing the graphite techniques I learned in Eduardo Bajzek’s symposium workshop, I had a hard time resisting spots of color to depict the bolts of fabrics on the shop’s long porch (or for that matter, resisting all the colorful signs and decorations throughout the Village). But I was OK with that, too. A gray medium for a gray morning on my first outing back at home seemed right somehow – and felt great.

Good to be sketching with my homies again -- and by the time we had our throwdown, the sun came out!

Friday, August 3, 2018

Porto Symposium, Part 2: Bajzek Workshop

7/19/18 My finished sketch from the workshop

A discussion of Graphite is the Matter, the workshop I took with Eduardo Bajzek, requires its own post because I am so intrigued by the process he uses that I want to document it thoroughly as a reminder to myself.

As happened with nearly all symposium activities, Eduardo led us on a steep, lengthy hike to his workshop location. A relatively quiet, pedestrian-only alley had tables for a small café and, as always, tightly stacked buildings forming a canyon.

To begin the workshop, Eduardo encouraged us to relax and prepare for the work ahead by sitting in silence for two full minutes with our eyes closed. He didn’t call it meditation, but he said he begins his own drawing and work practice this way to relax and quiet his mind. After the physical exertion of hiking uphill, my mind buzzing with thoughts about the symposium and conversation with other participants, it was a surprising and delightful way to begin.

Eduardo’s method involves three aspects:
  • The technique of using simple tools – pencils, erasers and a blending stump – to build forms with the matter of graphite.
  • The approach of focusing on masses instead of contours and shapes instead of lines. (This approach brought to mind the #30x30DirectWatercolor2018 challenge that Marc Holmes recently initiated to encourage watercolor painters to work directly with paint instead of relying on line first. I didn’t participate in that challenge, but I read several blogs and social media commentary by participants, and as I worked in the workshop, I immediately saw parallels with some of the challenges the watercolor participants had struggling with. Eduardo even called this method a painterly approach to using graphite.)
  • The concept of working from the outside in – from larger shapes to progressively smaller ones.

 
Workshop location
Eduardo showed us many examples of this
technique in his sketchbooks.


Because his method can be time-consuming and he knew he wouldn’t be able to demo a complete drawing large enough for all to see easily, Eduardo prepared for the workshop in an impressive manner that I really appreciated. Several days before the workshop, he scoped out his location and then spent more than two hours on a drawing. Another day, he came back to the same location and started a new drawing of the same view, this time stopping after about an hour. 
Eduardo's one-hour sample
Eduardo's two-hour sample

For the workshop participants, he pulled out a clean sheet of paper and started a fresh sketch – again of the same view. The demo itself lasted only about a half-hour, but because he could show us two more versions of how he might continue working on the drawing, we could see his additive process of honing the work and shaping the matter of graphite.
 
Eduardo during his demo
At each stage, the drawing looked relatively finished, and the main difference among them was the level of detail added. If a composition is strong and the values read well, then a drawing can have very little detail and still look finished.

Before beginning to draw, he talked quite a bit about observing closely to select a strong composition, but defining the drawing’s focal point is not important early in the game. This surprised me a bit, as I always find myself honing in on a focal point almost immediately before starting a sketch, as it’s usually the first thing that catches my attention.

Several more things surprised me as I watched him demonstrate. I always view Eduardo’s finished drawings as being very tight and controlled. Yet he applied the initial scribbles of graphite very loosely and quickly. The idea is to cover nearly the entire page (except large areas like the sky that would be left white) with a light, even tone of graphite. At this stage (and for quite a while after), no “drawing” of lines is allowed – none! Do you know how hard it is to resist putting down a meaningful line to define the side of a building, for example, or a roofline?! This is when my head started exploding, because up to this point, graphite in my hand has always expressed itself as a line – not a mass or shape. (I think some charcoal artists work in this manner, but given my avoidance of all things charcoal, I hadn’t experienced using this method at all.)
Eduardo applying graphite for the initial tone

Another thing that surprised me was the very specialized material he used for blending large areas of graphite once he had scribbled on the initial tone: toilet paper! This tool hadn’t appeared on the supply list, but he laughed as he explained how handy it is. (If you’ll recall, I said in my workshop prep post that I already own so much of everything that I didn’t have to buy a single item for the symposium. It turns out that I was also prepared with this item! I’ve had enough experience traveling outside the US that I always carry a partial roll of TP everywhere for its more conventional purpose in public restrooms. I never thought I’d use it during an urban sketching workshop!) The purpose of this step is to blend and unify the composition by making the tone as solid and even as possible.

I was also surprised that he used a Staedtler 3B grade for this initial scribbled and blended tone. I would have guessed that a slightly harder, lighter grade would be used initially (with gradually softer, darker grades used later), but he prefers using softer grades to avoid making inadvertent indentations in the paper and to make the application of tone go faster.

The final surprise? After he finished putting on this initial tone, he started defining some of the lines – the edges where rooflines met the sky, walls, etc. – but not with the pencil’s point. He used a kneaded eraser. (Can you see the contents of my brain continue to scatter in the street? It took me quite a while to stuff all the pieces back in!)

After that, the process was continual repetition of the previous cycle: Add more tone, this time more selectively; smudge with toilet paper and, when a finer stroke was needed, the blending stump; use the eraser to sharpen edges and continue to shape the forms. In a half-hour, he had produced a sketch that wasn’t quite finished but that had enough clearly defined forms and values that it “read” easily. The one-hour and two-hour samples he had prepared previously helped us visualize how he might have continued many more cycles of tone/blend/erase with the addition of sharp details to provide the focal point.

The view I selected.
Now it was our turn. I chose a relatively simple composition of the main canyon of buildings on either side of the pedestrian alley for its lack of detail. I thought this would keep me from being tempted to fiddle with too many lamp fixture curlicues. I also avoided identifying a focal point.

As I mentioned, resisting the impulse to “draw” the building contours was similar to resisting gravity – it felt very physical! I had planned to photograph my sketch at each stage as a reminder, but I don’t have a photo of that initial laydown of tone because I was too busy fighting my own arm, hand and pencil point. By the time I thought to take the photo below, I had already begun defining the shapes with the eraser and later the pencil point (that’s allowed, but only after the eraser has done the initial job).
 
Early stages of my sketch: Tone applied; shaping with eraser and pencil point begun.
When Eduardo came by to check on me, he encouraged me to use the TP more often to unify the composition. I said I didn’t want to smear the areas I had already started darkening, but he said not to worry about that until I was ready to work on fine details toward the end. At this stage, it’s still all about value and tone, and the nice thing about graphite is that the darker areas will always remain darker, even if TP’d, because of its layered, cumulative nature.

Smudging with TP begun.

Some darks picked out.

Eduardo suggested more use of the TP to unify the composition.

It was this late in the game that I finally decided to put in a lamp fixture with fine detail as the focal point.

 
Using nothing but a Mitsubishi Hi-Uni 3B (which is slightly softer than a Staedtler of the same grade), I worked for about an hour and a half on this drawing. (I meant to switch to a softer grade as I worked on darker areas, but I forgot.) I stopped before the end of the workshop because I was afraid I was going to start getting fiddly if I kept going. Perhaps more important, I really liked the way my sketch was at this point (top of post). I mentioned in my previous post that I often don’t like work I produce in workshops because it tends to feel like exercises or reflect the instructor’s vision more than my own. In this case, I was using an approach and technique that are distinctly Eduardo’s and not my own, yet I ended up pleased that I could follow both and still end up with a sketch that I like.

The challenge with learning a distinctive technique that is clearly associated with an instructor who teaches it is that I don’t want my sketches to simply be bad imitations of Eduardo’s work. ðŸ˜‰ That remains an issue for me – I want to find a way to use this technique and make it my own. 

7/19/18 Torre dos Clerigos
Once I finished stuffing my brain back into place, I went out immediately and tried using what I had just learned on a very small sketch of the Torre dos Clerigos (at left). This is exactly the type of building that I would normally draw with a fountain pen, initially enjoying all the tiny details but then getting lost in those same details. Using this tonal method, I was forced to focus only on the broad shape first. On this small sketch, I used the stump to blend, and I also used the fine edge of the Tombow Mono Zero eraser to define lines instead of the kneaded eraser.

A couple of days later during a sketch walk in the Vertudes neighborhood, I was attracted to the light on some trees that looked like it would be just right to practice the technique again (below). I used nothing but the 3B pencil again, but in retrospect, I should have used a softer grade later to bring out the darks more.
7/21/18 Vertudes
 Several days later in Coimbra, I made a sketch that turned out to be my favorite of the entire trip (below). You’ll see this sketch again later when I talk about my trip highlights (and lowlights), but I wanted to show it here because this time I remembered to take a photo of the initial toning step. 

7/25/18 Coimbra

Initial toning for Coimbra sketch at left

























You can see how scribbly and loose it is and how I’ve resisted (though barely) “drawing” the buildings. This time I remembered that I had several other pencil grades in my bag, so I used a Hi-Uni 6B on the darkest spots. I erased out the white umbrellas with the kneaded eraser (and successfully resisted “drawing” them first with the pencil point! Wahoo!). When I posted the sketch on Instagram, Eduardo commented as follows:

Wow! That’s great Tina!! The buildings on the background are just perfect. You know, once one very experienced artist said to me: connect the dark shapes... make a path with them. Maybe this suggestion could be apply here, connecting the tables/people marks with a shadow on the ground. Hope you don’t mind 😉

The workshop was long over, but I got free feedback from Eduardo! You can bet I considered his suggestion. I put in a quick shadow exactly as he suggested, and it made a big difference. (It’s that unification thing again that Veronica Lawlor mentioned.)

I don’t expect many of you to have kept reading through this lengthy post, but if you did, I hope you found this process as fascinating as I did! Thank you, Eduardo, for a mind-blowing workshop!

Thursday, August 2, 2018

Porto Symposium, Part 1: Lapin Workshop, Lawlor Demo

7/18/18 Alfandega across the street from symposium headquarters.

Looking through all my sketches, photos and journal notes from my days in Porto, I realized I have way too much material I want to show and talk about to put into a single post. Part 1 will be about two symposium activities – my workshop with Lapin and a demo by Veronica Lawlor.

I can’t begin to talk about the symposium, though, without first trying to describe the feeling I get when a symposium is just beginning (I’ve felt this way at every one I’ve attended). The sketch above, which isn’t particularly interesting in other ways, evokes that feeling for me because I made it on the first morning just outside symposium headquarters, Alfandega Porto Congress Centre. The doors to the center would not yet open for registration for a couple of hours, but eager sketchers were already gathering to sketch nearby. When I began the sketch, only a few other sketchers were in view, but by the time I finished, dozens were there, and across the street, dozens more. I didn’t know most of these people (yet), but we all shared the common bond of our love for urban sketching.

 To be among one’s tribe is a powerful, moving moment. When I go out sketching regularly with my local group, I take this bond for granted; they are my tribe, too. At the symposium, I get to see and experience how much larger this worldwide tribe is (and that’s not even counting the tens of thousands of other sketchers who didn’t attend the symposium). The symposium’s first day is always a reminder of how special the Urban Sketchers community is.

Lapin Workshop: Urban Archaeology: A Documentary Approach of the City

Lapin's workshop location
With the “basic” pass I chose, I was allowed to take two workshops – a difficult choice to make from 36 tempting options. I’ve long been a fan and follower of Lapin, and when I saw that his workshop topic was related to reportage and documentation, a topic I’ve been wanting to explore more deeply, it was an easy choice after all. Instead of a technique or medium, the workshop focused on Lapin’s particular interest in urban sketching to document and preserve the rapidly changing urban landscape. He described and showed us pages from the book he is working on, which will contain a collection of sketches from his Barcelona neighborhoods where unique, historic buildings are being torn down (many he has sketched are already gone) and replaced by generic ones. It’s a familiar story that is being repeated worldwide.

Lapin during the final throwdown discussion
Hiking for quite a while (all uphill, of course!) through Porto’s maze of narrow alleys, Lapin led us to a street he had explored previously for its striking juxtaposition of old and new. Our first exercise was to appreciate vintage typography and signage – often hand-painted – as well as more current graffiti by sketching them as accurately as possible.

Next Lapin gave us a brief demo of how he makes thumbnails to explore compositions and themes. He likes to show parts of two adjacent buildings in a single sketch, especially if they show old and new together. He also gave us tips on developing strong compositions that include a foreground, middle ground and background. We followed suit by making several thumbnails ourselves using the tips he provided.
Signage and graffiti
Composition thumbnails

During the last half of the workshop, we chose one thumbnail to develop into a full sketch. I chose a narrow street view where a row of traditional buildings on the right contrasted with new construction on the left (and a favorite crane, of course) – all in the shadow of the Torre dos Clerigos, Porto’s icon.

While the sketch was in progress, Lapin suggested that I put a tuk-tuk in the foreground (several were parked on the street, coming and going rapidly as they picked up clients). The tuk-tuk not only improved the composition; it also represents tourism and the many ways the urban landscape changes to accommodate visitors.
 
7/20/18 sketch from Lapin's workshop
In my experience from previous symposium workshops (or any urban sketching workshop, for that matter), I often don’t care for the sketches I produce in them because they either seem like nothing more than exercises or they feel too prescribed by the instructor’s vision more than my own. This was not the case with the sketch I made in Lapin’s workshop. I was attracted to this scene and probably would have sketched it on my own if I’d happened upon this street. The composition was improved by his feedback, and his approach to “urban archeology” gave me a greater appreciation for signage, juxtaposition and storytelling as a way to preserve what is rapidly disappearing in our urban landscape.

Veronica Lawlor capturing the Ribeira crowd
Veronica Lawlor Demo: Drawing a Crowd

Veronica Lawlor is another urban sketcher I have followed for a long time, and one thing I admire most about her work is her ability to draw huge crowds of people in places like Times Square. Although I was somewhat miffed that we could choose only one demo from 37 possibilities (I think we got to have more in the past), my choice was actually easy.

For her 30-minute demo, Veronica chose the Ribeira area near the Ponte Luis I bridge, which is always teeming with tourists. After talking to us briefly about how she approaches a crowd, she plopped down on the ground with two bottles of India ink (one diluted, one full strength) and a dip pen with a highly flexible nib. Her style is closer to calligraphy than drawing, and I enjoyed simply watching the expressive, varying marks and lines she used to convey the people going by. Veronica is very much a designer with every drawing she makes. It’s fascinating to view her approach in action, which is much slower than I would have expected.

After the demo, I stayed a while in the Ribeira area to practice what I’d just observed. Following Veronica’s approach, I tried to see people as large shapes instead of individuals, included people at varying distances to convey depth in the composition, and tried to keep groups of people connected so that they would be seen as part of a whole rather than individuals.

7/19/18 Ribeira

Wednesday, August 1, 2018

Porto

7/17/18 Porto and the Douro River

7/17/18 Jardim de Carrillho Videira, Porto
Porto is a beautiful, working-class, riverside city. Even if the main purpose for my trip to Portugal had not been to attend the 9th annual International Urban Sketchers Symposium, I would have chosen to visit Porto for many reasons. Although much of the architecture and landscape (and hilly, even steeper terrain!) are similar to Lisbon, Porto has a less intense ambiance that was more comfortable to me. Per capita, Porto apparently has more tourists than Lisbon, but I noticed that prices of restaurant food, for example, were not inflated as they were in Lisbon’s heavily touristed areas. Greg and I wandered into a café for lunch one day and saw prices of 3 to 4 Euro per entrée. Thinking that they would be small tapas-size servings (as we’d seen in Lisbon), he ordered two entrées – only to find that they were full size! Our entire three-entrée meal plus beverages came to about 12 Euro. (We found similarly low prices later in Coimbra, a college town. We paid double that in some Lisbon cafés.)

I have so many sketches and photos from my symposium experience that I’m going to cover all of that in a separate post. Shown here are the few sketches I made before the symposium began as well as a several photos to give you a general flavor for Porto.

7/1/7/18 Igreja do Carmo, Porto. As I was sketching this, blog reader @drawingvagabond recognized me! The best thing
about the USk symposium is meeting people in person whom I know otherwise only online.

7/17/18  Jardins do Palacio de Cristal

Douro River



Torre dos Clerigos at night

Symposium logo designed by Isa Silva. She said the Torre dos
Clerigos is curious to see what all the sketchers
are drawing!

Clerigos is Porto's icon. You'll see my
sketches of this lovely tower in a later post.
It was the inspiration for the symposium logo
shown at right.


Douro River at night



Whenever I travel near water, I like to fill a waterbrush or my spritzer bottle with a local natural water
source. Here's my hero filling my spritzer from the Douro River.

When we walked through the Casa Oriental Comur Conserveira shop in Lisbon, we resisted buying any of the colorful canned fish because we didn't want to pack the heavy cans. When we spotted the same store in Porto, our resistance broke down, and we bought several cans. The solution to lugging them all home? We ate them in Porto instead! Best canned fish ever. Regret that I didn't buy more to take home after all.

Smoked salmon, tuna, mackerel and sea bass (the latter was our favorite). The wine we found in our Airbnb apartment was a nice complement.

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