8/5/19 Maple Leaf neighborhood (I finally ditched the marker grisaille) |
For more than a year now, I’ve been using various gray
markers and brush pens as a grisaille for my watercolor pencil sketches
done on location. (See my tutorial on this method.) When I’m trying to
be fast and efficient, markers are a handy shortcut to getting the darkest value
to be as dark as I want it to be. But I’ve never been a fan of the streaky “marker-y”
look, even when I tried to smudge the wet ink (ala Don Colley; my thumb
is just not as quick as his apparently is). The blunt, flat edges of the marker
lines don’t integrate well with the softer, blended marks I love so much about
colored pencils.
(Most recently, the Pentel Pocket Brush Pen with gray ink has been my tool of choice for the grisaille. A brush pen leaves fewer streaky marks than a marker.)
(Most recently, the Pentel Pocket Brush Pen with gray ink has been my tool of choice for the grisaille. A brush pen leaves fewer streaky marks than a marker.)
All along, I’ve been experimenting with ways to achieve sufficient
value contrasts with watercolor pencils without relying on markers and still
being relatively fast on location. This will seem like a no-brainer, but all it
took was applying more pigment. Ha – what a revelation! As with watercolor back
when I used it, achieving rich, strong hues is never as easy as it seems (and achieving
wimpy, washed-out watercolors is the easiest thing in the world). I was just starting to get into it shortly before I left for Holland. Maybe sketching
all those towers I adored in the Netherlands gave me enough practice that I
finally have the confidence to ditch the marker as a grisaille
altogether. I think ditching the marker has also made me look more closely at the actual hue of a shadow instead of assuming a generic gray.
Lots of practice in Holland |
This sketch, made in May, still relies on a marker as a grisaille. |
To be fast, I have to apply a lot of pigment at once
(instead of layering slowly) and grind it into the paper – a method not
recommended by most colored pencil artists. And I can use this method easily only
with Caran d’Ache Museum Aquarelles, which are the softest, most highly pigmented
water-soluble colored pencils I’ve used. I treat them more like crayons than
pencils. Whatever works, right?
I used the shorty on the left all the way down to a stub, thanks to the Derwent extender. |
I go through a lot of my two favorite gray pencils – warm (808) and cool (508). Thankfully, now that I’ve finally found an extender that fits Museum Aquarelles, I can use them all the way down to a stub.
Great that you have an extender for those stubs!!! Glad you found a way to achieve the contrasts you were looking for.
ReplyDeleteDoes the same principle apply as with paint, to blend in the opposing color (from color wheel) to make a shadow? E.g. a yellow object's shadow side is done with yellow that has a dash of purple mixed in?
ReplyDeleteYes, it does, and I have done that occasionally. But as with paint, it requires strong familiarity with one's hues to avoid achieving mud. ;-) I'm going to continue experimenting and would like my use of water-soluble colored pencils to be more painterly eventually in the way that you describe.
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